You're reading...

Vaycay from our Vaycay: India Day 22-25 (Varkala)

Five days of rest, relaxation, and bloody hot sun–and boy, did we need it.

Most people traveling in India for any length of time spend weeks in Goa to recover from, well, travel in India. We didn’t have any desire to visit Goa, so we found a beach elsewhere.  Varkala was much lower key and had way fewer people–especially in the post-season, when we went. The weather was getting too hot for most, meaning no crowds. Fewer restaurants and stores were open, but who cares? We didn’t go there for the scene.

Avoiding the resorts farther up the cliffs and sticking mostly to the area around our pleasant $28/night a/c room, we found Varkala to be a great place to recharge our batteries. Most of our five days were filled with great views of the beach from the cliffs above, fresh fish every night, and the best body-surfing I’ve ever done. The water was warm and it felt like it genuinely wanted me to have a good time. In low tide, that is. In high tide, it threw me around viciously and it felt like the surf genuinely wanted me to break my neck. Still fun though.

A typical day went as such:

  • Wake up
  • Eat breakfast
  • Go to the beach for sun and swimming
  • Eat lunch
  • Nap or read indoors (out of the noon sun)
  • Eat dinner
  • Go to bed

What’s not to love?

There were a few exceptions, of course, little adventures here and there, such as:

My one and only Varkala yoga session with a yogi I can best describe as “pissy.” He had supposedly written a book on yoga that was used by the Indian armed forces (what, did you think they did jumping jacks?) . He complained about my not wanting to commit for a full week’s “study” (because how was I going to truly learn yoga?), but I think that he was more pissed that he didn’t have any students, period. I was the only one who showed up for his regular morning practice.

Planning the next leg of the trip, which required lots of time at the one A/C internet café on the cliffs.

A homemade thali dinner in the backyard of Kumari, a woman Dani recommended to us, who made a special dinner for Natacha, I, and the British woman who co-ran the Internet café.

last dinner

Varkala also happened to be a vacation spot for Indians as well. We met a lot of nice folks there, most of whom were curious to encounter westerners like us. Lots of families and students on weekend trips.

All in all, we got lots of rest and relaxation, and I read a ton of Salman Rushdie’s MIDNIGHTS CHILDREN there. Good times.



About kengrobe

Both for work and for pleasure, I create. I'm a writer, a musician, a creative manager, a sketch comic, and a comics writer (don't get those last two twisted!). I've made rent with some or all of these. And for my next trick, I'm going to figure out which of them I want to do most.


One thought on “Vaycay from our Vaycay: India Day 22-25 (Varkala)

  1. I’m glad to hear that it wasn’t just me that enjoyed Varkala. 🙂 Cochin is another place I can highly recommend in Kerala. As for the Trivandrum visit you made earlier I can see why it it didn’t make that much of an impression. It’s not much a tourist-town is it?

    And Goa… Good choice in not making that place your main visit, even if there are a lot of interesting tourists to meet there. 🙂 I will regret not sharing the one place I’ve found in India that has become my little spot of “heaven” though; If you get the chance I highly recommend for you to visit Gokarna – Ohm Beach (about an hour off of Goa). When I was there 4 years ago it was the only place I found that was still not destroyed by the tourists and yet so tourist friendly. In the one week I spent there not a single person tried to sell me something. It just hadn’t gotten popular enough! It was just a beach with beach huts to sleep in and cozy ajointed restaurants/hang-out places.

    The backpacking trip I made in India was probably the best thing I ever did, so I hope you both get as many wonderful memories as I have!

    Good luck! (And now that you’ve both had your little tourist sicknesses you can enjoy the rest of the trip without any bigger problems. 😉 )


    Posted by nightabove | November 4, 2008, 10:21 am

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s


November 2008
« Oct   Dec »
%d bloggers like this: